32020 UPPER ONLY (TOPSIDE) - 5 Col Lozenge WNW Albatros D.V
comes with PINK ribtapes.
LAST ONE -18/02/2019. GBP8.50 each + packaging.
comes with PINK ribtapes.
LAST ONE -18/02/2019. GBP8.50 each + packaging.
** The COLOURS below are indicative as they can vary depending on the settings of your own computer.**
|
Please note:
This is a set of UPPER with PINK ribtapes which are suitable when lozenge fabric was applied ONLY to the underwing. The booklet will deal with Upper and Lower decals as we have not modified the original booklet. 32020 PINK GBP19.50 (Upper and Lower) + pachaging have - NO reprint 
32020 BLUE Lower underside ONLY, with blue rib tapes
|
GBP8.50 each + packaging.
|
Single Option for 32020PINK - 5 Col Lozenges WNW Albatros D.V
This set comes with 2 separate booklets:
1:) The development and use of printed 4 and 5 colour “Flugzeugstoff” fabric on German aircraft in World War One, by Richard Andrews and Harry Green of theaviattic.com.
2:) ‘Lozenge’ Camouflage Instructions:
If you, dear modeller, are anything like the writer, then instructions are for reading after the event, either to find out where you went wrong (very unlikely!) or as a prelude to a letter of complaint or an internet forum post about how the product didn’t work as it was supposed to........ well, maybe for the first time in a long time (apart from devouring the gorgeous Wingnut Wings booklets), we ask that you.....PLEASE, Please, Read below!!!!
1:) The development and use of printed 4 and 5 colour “Flugzeugstoff” fabric on German aircraft in World War One, by Richard Andrews and Harry Green of theaviattic.com.
2:) ‘Lozenge’ Camouflage Instructions:
If you, dear modeller, are anything like the writer, then instructions are for reading after the event, either to find out where you went wrong (very unlikely!) or as a prelude to a letter of complaint or an internet forum post about how the product didn’t work as it was supposed to........ well, maybe for the first time in a long time (apart from devouring the gorgeous Wingnut Wings booklets), we ask that you.....PLEASE, Please, Read below!!!!
Painting
Make sure that the different aileron control pieces for the D.V or Va are fitted to the upper wing before painting. Don’t fit the radiators until after the covering is completed and mask the recesses for it on upper and lower surfaces before painting.
Paint and finish the wing roots of the lower wings in the main fuselage colour of your selected subject, either your favoured wood finish or whatever overall colour is appropriate – most D.Vs with coloured fuselages tended to have the wing root stubs painted to match. For wood finish, paint the metal panels on the upper surface in the recommended grey/green shade, including the long panel on the port wing inner edge. Mask off the completed wing roots. Mask off the attachment tabs before painting – Wingnut Wings parts have a very precise fit!
We recommend that you completely paint the parts to be covered, in a shade mixed to closely match the chosen rib tape colour, blue or pink. This colour is not absolutely necessary, but will be helpful in ensuring a continuous margin for the edge tapes, in the event of any slight misalignment in application. If preferred, a solid dark colour, such as a blue grey or dark grey, can be used.
Paint all the moulded-on ‘hardware’, which will be visible through the various cut-outs in the decals, in the grey/green shade. It isn’t necessary to mask all these small parts off, as the decal acts as a very precise mask, so slight overspray isn’t an issue, but the tidier the better, obviously. These parts include: all control surface hinges, the metal attachment brackets at the tailplane leading edge tips, lower wing inspection panels, strut attachment/rigging plates and the ‘pips’ on the upper surface of the wings, above the strut attachment points (these little blighters are a source of some potential problems later, so you could cut them off and drill holes for their later replacement with plastic rod or similar).
Now give a good gloss coat to all the parts to be decaled. This is a critical step with all decal work, but essential for these large area decals. We would recommend a compatible gloss varnish, or Johnson’s Klear/Future. Let everything dry thoroughly for a good 24 hours.
Environment, equipment and general preliminaries for applying the decals
Find yourself a quiet corner, (if you don’t have a modelling ‘cave’), banish household pets and children and beg your significant other for a few uninterrupted hours – cash in those accumulated Brownie points – you didn’t really want that new Tamiya Mustang anyway.... Take the phone off the hook, turn off the computer and put on your favourite “working” music and relax!
Clear the desk/bench (no, really, CLEAR IT UP!) and get set up for decaling. You should have the following to hand before starting:
· Cutting mat or other non-absorbent surface.
· Flat tweezers.
· A NEW and SHARP scalpel blade
· Container of clean warm water (a good capacity means that the water will remain warm for longer and you have some large pieces of decal to dunk).
· Decal setting solution (Micro set blue label is recommended) and a clean wide brush. Not absolutely necessary, but some form of wetting agent will be very helpful – a drop or two of dishwashing liquid in the decal water also works.
· Johnsons Klear/future and a small brush.
· Container of clean water for rinsing brushes
· A hair dryer
· Paper kitchen towel (not tissue – it sheds bits everywhere you don’t want them!)
· Fine sanding stick or flexi-file (preferred) with a fine abrasive
· A pair of clean hands!
General decal handling
Cut the individual pieces from the sheets, in particular cut them free of logos, titles, copyright legends etc., as these have a habit of finding their way onto your model with the decals...
Don’t cut the separate rib tapes out yet, only as you need them. They have a wide area of decal film around them; this is to prevent them ‘snaking’ or kinking and keeps them nice and straight, so don’t cut too close to the coloured decal.
When dipping the decals in the water, do so only for five or six seconds, then place on the cutting mat or a non-absorbent surface until they can be moved freely – 30 seconds or so is normally sufficient. Just enough time to brush on the setting solution, if you are using it.
Know your parts!
Note that the tail planes are handed and the right side one has a larger locating tab than the left, so be sure that the upper decal goes on the upper surface! The ailerons on the wings are also handed, so, again, make sure you know which side is up!
Application
With all the lozenge decal pieces, position the decal, still on its backing paper, hold the edge of the decal down with a finger tip and gently pull the backing paper out, leaving the decal as close to the final position as possible. NOTE that the largest decals will not always slide around easily once off the decal paper – they can be simply adjusted for minor alignment, but the whole decal may tend to “grab” and not take kindly to major shifts. If you have made a major positioning mistake it is better to carefully remove the decal with tweezers, put it back on the backing paper and re-apply; the decals are very strong but attempts at major movements when on the model may tear them.
Adjust the decal by moving with a finger tip, a little at a time. When you are completely happy with the decal’s position, press it down with a piece of paper kitchen towel along the trailing edge and work forward to the leading edge using finger tips and a piece of towel to smooth the decal and push out air and water bubbles, as needed.
Now comes the particular trick for getting a good finish; almost all the decals have a slight overhang at the edges of the kit parts and they are reluctant to fold over by themselves. As soon as each decal has been smoothed into its final position, apply a small brush of Future/Klear along the edge of the decal, working about two or three centimetres at a time and going a few mm under the decal, quickly wipe off any excess on both surfaces with a fingertip and apply heat from the hairdryer (always on the low heat setting) for ten to fifteen seconds – probably as much as your fingers can stand – then smooth the decal over the edge with finger and/or thumb, using a finger nail or cocktail stick to “persuade” the decal around hinges etc. If it is reluctant to fold over, apply a little more heat and/or Future/Klear.
This process is perhaps a little daunting at first reading, but it works very well and once you get into the rhythm of it, it is a very easy and satisfying process. Use this technique on all the pieces which overlap the edges of the kit parts. This does the same job as a decal softening solution but without the attendant risk of damage to the decal which can sometimes be caused - especially if using some of the more aggressive solutions. Note that decal softening solutions in general are NOT recommended. In particular, Humbrol Decalfix has a marked adverse effect on these and Wingnut Wings decals.
Make sure that the different aileron control pieces for the D.V or Va are fitted to the upper wing before painting. Don’t fit the radiators until after the covering is completed and mask the recesses for it on upper and lower surfaces before painting.
Paint and finish the wing roots of the lower wings in the main fuselage colour of your selected subject, either your favoured wood finish or whatever overall colour is appropriate – most D.Vs with coloured fuselages tended to have the wing root stubs painted to match. For wood finish, paint the metal panels on the upper surface in the recommended grey/green shade, including the long panel on the port wing inner edge. Mask off the completed wing roots. Mask off the attachment tabs before painting – Wingnut Wings parts have a very precise fit!
We recommend that you completely paint the parts to be covered, in a shade mixed to closely match the chosen rib tape colour, blue or pink. This colour is not absolutely necessary, but will be helpful in ensuring a continuous margin for the edge tapes, in the event of any slight misalignment in application. If preferred, a solid dark colour, such as a blue grey or dark grey, can be used.
Paint all the moulded-on ‘hardware’, which will be visible through the various cut-outs in the decals, in the grey/green shade. It isn’t necessary to mask all these small parts off, as the decal acts as a very precise mask, so slight overspray isn’t an issue, but the tidier the better, obviously. These parts include: all control surface hinges, the metal attachment brackets at the tailplane leading edge tips, lower wing inspection panels, strut attachment/rigging plates and the ‘pips’ on the upper surface of the wings, above the strut attachment points (these little blighters are a source of some potential problems later, so you could cut them off and drill holes for their later replacement with plastic rod or similar).
Now give a good gloss coat to all the parts to be decaled. This is a critical step with all decal work, but essential for these large area decals. We would recommend a compatible gloss varnish, or Johnson’s Klear/Future. Let everything dry thoroughly for a good 24 hours.
Environment, equipment and general preliminaries for applying the decals
Find yourself a quiet corner, (if you don’t have a modelling ‘cave’), banish household pets and children and beg your significant other for a few uninterrupted hours – cash in those accumulated Brownie points – you didn’t really want that new Tamiya Mustang anyway.... Take the phone off the hook, turn off the computer and put on your favourite “working” music and relax!
Clear the desk/bench (no, really, CLEAR IT UP!) and get set up for decaling. You should have the following to hand before starting:
· Cutting mat or other non-absorbent surface.
· Flat tweezers.
· A NEW and SHARP scalpel blade
· Container of clean warm water (a good capacity means that the water will remain warm for longer and you have some large pieces of decal to dunk).
· Decal setting solution (Micro set blue label is recommended) and a clean wide brush. Not absolutely necessary, but some form of wetting agent will be very helpful – a drop or two of dishwashing liquid in the decal water also works.
· Johnsons Klear/future and a small brush.
· Container of clean water for rinsing brushes
· A hair dryer
· Paper kitchen towel (not tissue – it sheds bits everywhere you don’t want them!)
· Fine sanding stick or flexi-file (preferred) with a fine abrasive
· A pair of clean hands!
General decal handling
Cut the individual pieces from the sheets, in particular cut them free of logos, titles, copyright legends etc., as these have a habit of finding their way onto your model with the decals...
Don’t cut the separate rib tapes out yet, only as you need them. They have a wide area of decal film around them; this is to prevent them ‘snaking’ or kinking and keeps them nice and straight, so don’t cut too close to the coloured decal.
When dipping the decals in the water, do so only for five or six seconds, then place on the cutting mat or a non-absorbent surface until they can be moved freely – 30 seconds or so is normally sufficient. Just enough time to brush on the setting solution, if you are using it.
Know your parts!
Note that the tail planes are handed and the right side one has a larger locating tab than the left, so be sure that the upper decal goes on the upper surface! The ailerons on the wings are also handed, so, again, make sure you know which side is up!
Application
With all the lozenge decal pieces, position the decal, still on its backing paper, hold the edge of the decal down with a finger tip and gently pull the backing paper out, leaving the decal as close to the final position as possible. NOTE that the largest decals will not always slide around easily once off the decal paper – they can be simply adjusted for minor alignment, but the whole decal may tend to “grab” and not take kindly to major shifts. If you have made a major positioning mistake it is better to carefully remove the decal with tweezers, put it back on the backing paper and re-apply; the decals are very strong but attempts at major movements when on the model may tear them.
Adjust the decal by moving with a finger tip, a little at a time. When you are completely happy with the decal’s position, press it down with a piece of paper kitchen towel along the trailing edge and work forward to the leading edge using finger tips and a piece of towel to smooth the decal and push out air and water bubbles, as needed.
Now comes the particular trick for getting a good finish; almost all the decals have a slight overhang at the edges of the kit parts and they are reluctant to fold over by themselves. As soon as each decal has been smoothed into its final position, apply a small brush of Future/Klear along the edge of the decal, working about two or three centimetres at a time and going a few mm under the decal, quickly wipe off any excess on both surfaces with a fingertip and apply heat from the hairdryer (always on the low heat setting) for ten to fifteen seconds – probably as much as your fingers can stand – then smooth the decal over the edge with finger and/or thumb, using a finger nail or cocktail stick to “persuade” the decal around hinges etc. If it is reluctant to fold over, apply a little more heat and/or Future/Klear.
This process is perhaps a little daunting at first reading, but it works very well and once you get into the rhythm of it, it is a very easy and satisfying process. Use this technique on all the pieces which overlap the edges of the kit parts. This does the same job as a decal softening solution but without the attendant risk of damage to the decal which can sometimes be caused - especially if using some of the more aggressive solutions. Note that decal softening solutions in general are NOT recommended. In particular, Humbrol Decalfix has a marked adverse effect on these and Wingnut Wings decals.